The top row of the above image indicates 3 different kinds of prong settings
. The first is the classic, basket setting
. There are four (sometimes six or eight) prongs supported by a ring or two of metal for added support. The second is a peg head
. These settings tend to stick up higher off the rest of the piece and sits right on top of a shank for what we call a " cathedral
" mounting. The third is a decorative mounting. This type of prong setting can have any number of prongs, but is paired with a design, rather than the basket or the peg.
The second row shows two types of bezel and tab settings. A bezel
means that metal goes all the way around the stone. This is the most secure type of setting. The partial
or semi bezel
cuts about half of the metal from opposing sides to better show off the stone. This is often a great idea for gemstones to help let more light into the stone. The last is a tab
or bar setting
. This is typically a straight line of metal that holds in a stone, similarly to a bezel. Where there are multiple of these settings in a row, it is called a channel setting
The third row are alternative prong-like settings. The first is a bright cut
. the edges of the surrounding metal are given a high polish to make the stone appear larger. The stone is also set lower to better protect the stone. The center setting is a diamond accented setting, similar to the basket setting. The bezel set accent stone adds support to the setting, as well as adding a bit more bling to the profile of the ring. The far right setting is an illusion setting
. Similarly to the bright cut setting, this setting is made to make smaller stones look larger than they are. These are often found in antique rings.
On the last row, you will see another example or a channel set ring. In this case, it can also be called a tension set
ring. Many tension set rings don't have any metal under the center stone and are held in by the two opposing sides of the shank, and you guessed it, tension. White gold is ideal for tension settings. A trellis
ring is composed of swooping and overlapping wires that make up a "trellis". This designs is most often used in three-stone settings.
The below settings styles are more more diamonds or gemstones set in rows. You will often hear a sales person refer to this as the shank of the ring. The first style, we talked about previously is the channel set
. The bars or rails on either side of the stones hold in the stones. This style is ideal for princess or square cut stones.
Next is a bead set
ring. This has rails similar to a channel set, but they are typically thinner and sometimes accented with a milgrain beaded edge. The rails in this setting do not hold the stones in, but rather then "beads" in between the stones. One bead will sometimes hold in up to two stones.
A scalloped setting
uses shared prongs, like the bead setting, but without the rails. The area under the stones are scooped out to allow for cleaning and more light to enter the stones.
Get ready for this one, it has a funny name, but very descriptive once you take a look at the style. This one is called a fishtail setting
. The metal that is cut away for setting the stones leaves a "fishtail" look from the profile. Each side of the "tail" is used to hold in a stone.
Many people confuse bead setting with pave. They are the same concept, but pave setting
means there are multiple rows of bead setting. One bead holds three stones in at once! This is the best way to get ultimate sparkle for your piece of jewelry.
Surface prong setting
is essentially the exact same thing as a bead setting, but without the accompanying rails on either side. There is the base metal underneath the stones and beads of prongs added on top to hold the stones.
This next style holds the stones in the exact same way as bead or surface prongs, but with a different profile look. Shared prongs
are composed of under bezels (metal the same shape as the stone on top for the stone to sit on). and prongs, which extend all the way to the finger.
or bar setting
, is like we took a channel setting and turned each stone 90 degrees. Each stone is held in by straight tabs or bars on either side of the stone.
This type of setting we saw previously is called bezel setting
. The metal goes all the way around the center stone.
Lastly, we have flush
or gypsy setting
. This setting style has not bezel or prongs, but instead the stones are buried into the metal and held in by the surrounding area. Typically this type of setting is for smaller stones.
This type of setting is often seen in antique style rings. Called French cutaway
style, and very similar to the fishtail, but with a slightly different profile view. As you can see, this is less of a "fishtail" and more of a "U" and "V" alternating pattern.
These prong setting styles are pretty self explanatory and can be done with any number of prongs (typically four, six, or eight). The first style is the basic, single prong
style. The second is a double prong
. Because they're holding essentially the same area, you wouldn't call the prong style in the example an eight prong, you would call it a double four prong. The far right is an older style of shaping the prongs. Whereas the other two are rounded prongs, this example is considered a claw prong
. You can also have square
shapes for fancy shape stones with points.
This setting style is called invisible set
. The diamonds on the edge are held in by metal, but all of the stones with no metal touching are held in by the metal underneath the stones and grooves that are cut into the stones. This style is very difficult to set, and many jewelers will not do invisible settings and will not repair them. Although it can be beautiful to not see any metal, keep in mind, if a stone ever falls out, it may be difficult to repair.